August 30, 2014, 12:03 pm
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Just picked up my new Gator xuv550 a few hours ago and have a major body/paint issue. The machine still had the white shipping protection film stuck all over the green body panels. The dealer pulled them off, but it looked awful from never being washed, so once we got home, I decided to give it a bath. I noticed what appeared to be glue still on the rear bed panel beside the tailgate, so I got my vehicle wax to remove it, but the area started bubbling like a film was released from the panel and then it peeled off which was in green strings. I am pissed to say the least! It is a work machine, but it shouldn't screw up the body just from cleaning it after a days work. What will it look like after a while of serious work if this has happened with less that 1/2 hour on the meter and one day old? What a stupid way to produce a product. JD is gonna pay for this one way or another, or I'll never make the first payment. I could have paid cash anyway, but 0% can't be beat and in this case, I'm glad I didn't! I will not be satisfied unless the complete body is line-x covered after seeing this, so that's my goal now. Anyone done this? I've seen complete Jeep bodies done inside and out, so this should be no problem I'd say. Pics attached
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jfi4tp4le9...44.27.jpg?dl=0![]()
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I have had the 825i Gator (I think I will call him George) for just over a year and went through many of the items noted. I do not have a lot of hrs (<40).
I had noticed this before but the wheel bolts appear to be 13/16-in so if it was metric it would 20mm (13/16 is 20.6mm). I also did not have my torque wrench to check torque on wheel bolts but they were tight. I assume these are sport wheels so 105 ft-lbs so will check when I pull wheels and maybe check brakes.
I also noticed the front differential oil bolt is also larger and had to use a larger english socket. I am not sure if that is metric as well. The largest metric I have is 18mm.
It is impossible to directly see the level to know if it was at top of the opening so I just inserted a bent wire to see how far it wet the wire. This seemed to work. I had to do the same thing with the parking brake fluid level.
The transaxle oil was at 50% in the hatch area (not full but not low). The reading method in the op guide says to remove the dipstick and just rest on threads to check. If I screwed it down and read, it read full so I will top it off to be safe.
The oil still looked new (not quite a year since changed art 8 hrs) and will change it a little later.
I did notice that the filter in the clutch intake had stopped a few leaves but the interior and exhaust looked very clean.
I did not replace to fuel filter yet but wondered exactly how the quick disconnects work. What you do you push? I see the black collar and a white inner part so assume I do something with the white (push, lift). I saw a previous poster say they break (they are not cheap) so want to be sure. There are several large wire bundles running over it.
The manual mentions lubricating the suspension bushings but does not mention what to use. The shocks do seem to squeal a little and looked at the shock bushings. They do not look very large.
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August 31, 2014, 11:43 am
Anyone running a kolpin gear rail setup and a snorkel? Any fitment issues? Pictures?
Thanks.
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September 1, 2014, 3:38 pm
Hoping to get some advice/confirmation from the experts on what I believe is a bad coil on my new to me 2002 Gator Turf. I got it with a long history of stalling and not restarting. Much has been replaced by the previous owner on spec, such as generator, key switch,pedal switch, hand brake switch, run relay, spark plugs.
It works fine until warmed up and then spark becomes intermittent. Have installed a jumper across the foot pedal, emergency brake switch and removed the run relay, which appears to be the only possible ground paths to the coil. Have checked for wire rub through's and all looks good. Don't see any ground being applied to the wire going to the primary side of the coil while it is running
Machine will start and run for a few minutes and then lose spark. Haven't had the engine cover off yet and figured I might as well get a coil if I am going to remove it.
Would anyone happen to have any foresight/suggestions on what I might be overlooking?
Also, is the ignition module part of the coil, or a separate unit?
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September 1, 2014, 8:33 pm
Just got my rsx about a week ago its a 2012 camo, sold my 2013 sportster 48 with 1500 miles on to buy this bad boy took it out this weekend with the family and had a blast on Saturday but Sunday i took out the front diff should have it fixed sometime this week.
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September 2, 2014, 6:03 am
I have 27 11 14 and 27 9 14 bighorn and want taller for deep water
any suggestions on tire size/make?
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September 2, 2014, 9:31 am
you still running your 2 Inch Lift? How is it handling your beating?
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September 2, 2014, 12:09 pm
Lokking for good rear end for 2004 4x2 gator? Thanks brian
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September 2, 2014, 6:33 pm
Looking for rear end for 2004 4x2 gator. Thanks brian
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September 3, 2014, 2:24 pm
Hi All,
My fuel cutoff solenoid will not pull in, but if I manually push it in with the key on it will stay in. I do have voltage on the red wire with key on, but no voltage on white wire when key in start position. Thought it was the relay on the right side frame, whic i changed, but that didn't help. I started checking pins at the relay base with the following observations:
Pin 30 had power, so fuses are good (also checked em separately)
Pin 85 (switch power has voltage when key turned)
Checked continuity between pin 87 (device power) and plug to solenoid and had continuity.
Pin 86 (ground) would not give continuity with frame which I thought was odd. I looked at the outlet and it looks like there is a small diode or resister on the outgoing wire which is confusing.
I'm leaning toward the ground on the relay but haven't quit figured out how to test it without cutting the wire and putting another wire back to battery ground. I haven't had a helper to feel the relay switch when key is put to start position, so I can't tell if relay is switching (and my arms aren't long enough!). Thanks for any advice!
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September 4, 2014, 8:42 am
Just got my 825i S4 and am getting all my supplies in order to do some upgrades. Winch, stereo, lights, etc. I'll post some updates as installs go and I finish building my stereo roll bar mount. I have a question or 2 before I start.
First order of business is the winch. It came in yesterday. I got the SuperWinch Tera 45. It came with a really awkward
circuit breaker (no insulation, just bare metal) that I am ditching for a much better one with a
manual reset. Which will lead to the solenoid. Where did you mount your solenoid? I haven't measured anything yet, but I am pretty sure the winch did not come with enough wire to run all the way to the battery on the S4. I am also adding a dash mount rocker switch for the control, I like that cleaner look. Where you guys and gals got ignition power for these types of accessories / switches?
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September 4, 2014, 3:18 pm
We use a 2007 Gator TE used for our High School Baseball team. Grooming field etc. It has an intermittent issue with not going forward but will always go in reverse. Most times problem can be solved by driving backwards for a few moments. Lately that does not help. It has a new forward/reverse switch, new batteries, cables and is in good overall shape. 900 hours. any advice would be appreciated.
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September 5, 2014, 6:09 am
Hi I am shopping for a gator and am looking at these 2 machines
Will be for a hunt camp and the unit will be sitting for months not being used - I am thinking that the injected 625 will serve me best with standing fuel issues
Need some input and help please
Thank you!
Scott
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September 5, 2014, 10:16 am
Hi everyone,
I'm a forest park ranger and we constantly keep losing air or getting flats on all four tires! This is due to tight trials we have to negotiate and one; losing air due to tire roll or two; getting flats due to sticks getting jammed between the rim and tire. We have been looking for some beadlock rims to help with our issues but we can't find anyone who makes a 5 lug beadlock rim. Help please!!! Thank you.
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September 5, 2014, 10:59 am
I am trying to set the unit up so that it doesn't stop the engine every time I need to jump off for a second.
I have bypassed all the switches that ground the coil to shut it off and it still has a tendency to want to creep ahead at a 600 rpm idle.
Being very familiar with snowmobile clutching I can see the clutch relaxes another 1/4" further as the engine shuts off than at at idle.
If this were a snowmobile clutch it would tell me that the primary clutch spring, clutch bushings are weak/worn and not pulling the sheaves back all the way at spec idle.
I might increase the clutch distances slightly to help, but would also like it running as designed.
The poor old thing has 4400 hours on it and the spring must be real tired.
I see in the manual that it should idle around 700 rpm and the primary clutch should engage at around 1100 rpm.
I have dozens of clutch pullers for snowmobiles and was wondering if anyone would know the length and thread of the puller that I would need to pull this clutch?
Also, should I expect the clutch to pull all the way back at a 600 rpm idle?
Lastly, can a person buy a slightly heavier spring for this clutch so that I can use as I would like?
Appreciate any thought's
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September 5, 2014, 12:24 pm
Iv had a over heating problem since i bought my gator and riding in the mud does not help it at all. well not long ago i had my voltage regulator fuse belt and have been replacing them ever since. well while riding two weeks ago the light came on and i was miles from the truck so i drove it back not thinking about pulling it out. When i got back to the truck i found the fuse block had melted alil and not the terminals are messed up. is there anything i can do once i get the gator back to cool her down? iv thought about everything but nothing seems to truly help it run cooler. i believe a radiator relocation is possible coming if i ever get off my butt and draw it up since i know it will be a BIG project. thanks for reading. Marcus
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September 5, 2014, 1:49 pm
I went to the JD dealer to pick up a fuel filter and fluid for the transaxle.
My 825i manual recommended J20C but he said I could use J20D. This looks like a lower viscosity and some posts call this the winter fluid.
Can I use the J2OD as a year round replacement if needed? I just wanted to have some in case. Can I mix them? If not, I will just get the right stuff.
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September 6, 2014, 7:00 pm
Does anyone know how to get more arm travel with stock 2.0 shocks i disconnected sway bar and it doesn't seem to have done much now the shock is just holding it i think does anyone hav any idea???
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September 7, 2014, 10:24 am
Hey everyone,
New to the forum here. I have a 2013 RSX 850i Sport edition here in New Glasgow, NS, Canada.
Bike has about 900 miles on it and the first CVT belt went on it. Never changed one on a side by side before, I am wondering if anybody has a good link to a DIY video or post for belt replacement?
I did some searching on here but didn't find anything.
Thanks
Nick
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September 7, 2014, 3:11 pm
52 hrs sounds like my belt is coming apart
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Just picked up my new Gator xuv550 a few hours ago and have a major body/paint issue. The machine still had the white shipping protection film stuck all over the green body panels. The dealer pulled them off, but it looked awful from never being washed, so once we got home, I decided to give it a bath. I noticed what appeared to be glue still on the rear bed panel beside the tailgate, so I got my vehicle wax to remove it, but the area started bubbling like a film was released from the panel and then it peeled off which was in green strings. I am pissed to say the least! It is a work machine, but it shouldn't screw up the body just from cleaning it after a days work. What will it look like after a while of serious work if this has happened with less that 1/2 hour on the meter and one day old? What a stupid way to produce a product. JD is gonna pay for this one way or another, or I'll never make the first payment. I could have paid cash anyway, but 0% can't be beat and in this case, I'm glad I didn't! I will not be satisfied unless the complete body is line-x covered after seeing this, so that's my goal now. Anyone done this? I've seen complete Jeep bodies done inside and out, so this should be no problem I'd say. Pics attached