I finally got the winch completely installed. I would like to thank all the previous posters for their feedback since it made a difference in the process.
Here is the installation process:
Removed the hood to get clean access
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Made a cardboard template to locate, checking clearances, and for drilling holes
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Solenoid installed
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Made a JD like wiring hardness to tap into the switched power plus a new input for other attachments. I purchased the connectors/contacts from Performance Connection Solutions - fast delivery.
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Glovebox removed to drill hole for remote.
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Glovebox re-installed with remote installed showing clearance of screws. need to keep low
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Interior glove box view with remote connection
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Wiring harness added to connection on driver's side
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Wiring from remote and dash swtich (red wires) tied to connector going into wiring harness. I cut off the piggy back connectors from handle bar swtich since I was using my own switch.
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Dash switches ready for pre-testing. The winch switch is a Contura marine switch (got off ebay) and the off/on switch for power was a Euro style from Allied Electronics done CaptDan style
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Switches snapped in - easy to remove if needed
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Wiring down to winch. Used red/black to winch, yellow/ blue to battery due to length
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Wires going down to winch.
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Winch installed on bracket and wired up without remote My winch end stopper had not arrived.
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The battery mess before starting.. all those cables are mostly the wiring harness for the add on OPS switch kit and the windshield wiper. It includes more taps, breakers, etc and several unused connectors for who knows what all stuffed by the battery. To get access to under the center console (between buckets) I was able to remove one side and bent up, It looked like a job to remove the console itself (seat belt holders, etc)
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Wires running through center channel
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Solenoid end all wired up
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Mounting the circuit breaker in the soap box and taped it shut
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All stuffed back in place. The ring terminal on the negative cable was too small in diameter to fit the negative post screw so had to file it so it would fit over stud.
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Center armrest surround back in place
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Installed wiring cleaned up somewhat after successful test
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Finally installed with rope/stopper
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Front view
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Close up shot
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The Cambridge metals winch bracket worked like a champ and actually easier to install than one would expect. The slotted holes on the rear screws allow you to flip the screws in place since the winch is already bolted to the frame. The connection at winch rear was not too bad.
The winch has plenty of room left to right and close at the top.
The rope was easy to install after I replaced the vinyl tape on the end and re-wrapped. It slid through easy and taped to drum along length per instructions from Superwinch.
I ordered the winch stopper from amazon. It fed easily on rope and had slots for rope protector.
The only change I plan to make it add a connection in the power feed line from remote connector to wiring harness on opposite side. I realized after installation that since the remote socket is installed from inside to remove glove box requires pulling the the power line from the tubing I added for wiring so will break the line near the solenoid.
Here is the installation process:
Removed the hood to get clean access
Made a cardboard template to locate, checking clearances, and for drilling holes
Solenoid installed
Made a JD like wiring hardness to tap into the switched power plus a new input for other attachments. I purchased the connectors/contacts from Performance Connection Solutions - fast delivery.
Glovebox removed to drill hole for remote.
Glovebox re-installed with remote installed showing clearance of screws. need to keep low
Interior glove box view with remote connection
Wiring harness added to connection on driver's side
Wiring from remote and dash swtich (red wires) tied to connector going into wiring harness. I cut off the piggy back connectors from handle bar swtich since I was using my own switch.
Dash switches ready for pre-testing. The winch switch is a Contura marine switch (got off ebay) and the off/on switch for power was a Euro style from Allied Electronics done CaptDan style
Switches snapped in - easy to remove if needed
Wiring down to winch. Used red/black to winch, yellow/ blue to battery due to length
Wires going down to winch.
Winch installed on bracket and wired up without remote My winch end stopper had not arrived.
The battery mess before starting.. all those cables are mostly the wiring harness for the add on OPS switch kit and the windshield wiper. It includes more taps, breakers, etc and several unused connectors for who knows what all stuffed by the battery. To get access to under the center console (between buckets) I was able to remove one side and bent up, It looked like a job to remove the console itself (seat belt holders, etc)
Wires running through center channel
Solenoid end all wired up
Mounting the circuit breaker in the soap box and taped it shut
All stuffed back in place. The ring terminal on the negative cable was too small in diameter to fit the negative post screw so had to file it so it would fit over stud.
Center armrest surround back in place
Installed wiring cleaned up somewhat after successful test
Finally installed with rope/stopper
Front view
Close up shot
The Cambridge metals winch bracket worked like a champ and actually easier to install than one would expect. The slotted holes on the rear screws allow you to flip the screws in place since the winch is already bolted to the frame. The connection at winch rear was not too bad.
The winch has plenty of room left to right and close at the top.
The rope was easy to install after I replaced the vinyl tape on the end and re-wrapped. It slid through easy and taped to drum along length per instructions from Superwinch.
I ordered the winch stopper from amazon. It fed easily on rope and had slots for rope protector.
The only change I plan to make it add a connection in the power feed line from remote connector to wiring harness on opposite side. I realized after installation that since the remote socket is installed from inside to remove glove box requires pulling the the power line from the tubing I added for wiring so will break the line near the solenoid.