I did several upgrades to the 855D with the OPS Deluxe Cab. They were sun visor, dome light, front and rear work lights, and beacon light. Everything JD has a price. However, the straightforward installation and wiring harnesses which are plug and play make the work easier. The result looks "factory". I included some photos.
Front/Rear Work Lights: First, DO NOT buy the LED version that gets cross referenced wrong on the JD site. It is for a different configuration (tubular cage and fiberglass top). You have to remove the windshield to get access to the backside of the hole to get the bracket nut in. JD recommends most things are a two person job but so far, I managed fine. Removing the windshield involves pulling the interior overhead panel. I used bungee cords to hold it up. you need to open the cover to the wiper and disconnect the control feed. Remove the gas cylinders from the bottom only. Unbolt the two nuts retaining the windshield. Lift it out a little at the bottom and let it rest on the hood. Installation of the lights and wiring harness is covered adequately in the instructions. The rear worklight is likewise straightforward. You route the harness under the foam headliner. The instructions will tell you how to replace a bulb but doesn't tell you what kind of bulb it is. They are standard H1 automotive headlight bulbs. In looking at my install, I'm probably going to replace the front H1s with HID as the bulb wiring will easily route to the inside of the cab and there's plenty of room behind the overhead panel for the ballast and anti-flicker module. Spring project. The result is a great high beam. The rear light gets used more for a back up light as the regular ones don't provide enough illumination in dark places.
Dome Light: Quick install as everything is on the overhead panel. I replaced the standard tubular bulbs with LEDs. More light.
Sun Visor: Nice idea and easy install. Problem is the first third of it covers the overhead panel which already blocks the sun and the rest doesn't come down low enough to be terribly useful. I'm likely going to get a clip on extension. It's better than not having it though.
Beacon light: It's pricey and yes, a $30 magnetic will work. I just preferred something more rugged and just there at the flip of a switch. The mount is spring pivoting so if you hit something, the light folds back. It too takes an H1 bulb. The unit is made in Romania and is metric as is everything else JD nowadays. The light is an old school type motorized spinning unit.
Overhead Wiring: What JD doesn't tell you is they presume you're putting everything in like I did. If you use the designated slots, fine. However if you only use 2-3 accessories, the switch/fuse units must be adjacent for the wiring harness power jumpers to be long enough to bridge from switch to switch. Their location configuration is decent in that the closer the switch, the more frequently it gets used. You do need the 30A main power harness that runs from under the seat to the panel even if you decide you're only installing one accessory.
I had a chance to drive at night and the front lights are a nice addition. You can angle them as you like. I just set them for a beam pattern similar to using high beams. I'll finish up by installing the windshield washer kit later. The wiper switch is already configured with a momentary spring position for it. The tank goes behind the cab on the right frame member. It should clear the air filter assembly with is outside due to the cab heater.
Front/Rear Work Lights: First, DO NOT buy the LED version that gets cross referenced wrong on the JD site. It is for a different configuration (tubular cage and fiberglass top). You have to remove the windshield to get access to the backside of the hole to get the bracket nut in. JD recommends most things are a two person job but so far, I managed fine. Removing the windshield involves pulling the interior overhead panel. I used bungee cords to hold it up. you need to open the cover to the wiper and disconnect the control feed. Remove the gas cylinders from the bottom only. Unbolt the two nuts retaining the windshield. Lift it out a little at the bottom and let it rest on the hood. Installation of the lights and wiring harness is covered adequately in the instructions. The rear worklight is likewise straightforward. You route the harness under the foam headliner. The instructions will tell you how to replace a bulb but doesn't tell you what kind of bulb it is. They are standard H1 automotive headlight bulbs. In looking at my install, I'm probably going to replace the front H1s with HID as the bulb wiring will easily route to the inside of the cab and there's plenty of room behind the overhead panel for the ballast and anti-flicker module. Spring project. The result is a great high beam. The rear light gets used more for a back up light as the regular ones don't provide enough illumination in dark places.
Dome Light: Quick install as everything is on the overhead panel. I replaced the standard tubular bulbs with LEDs. More light.
Sun Visor: Nice idea and easy install. Problem is the first third of it covers the overhead panel which already blocks the sun and the rest doesn't come down low enough to be terribly useful. I'm likely going to get a clip on extension. It's better than not having it though.
Beacon light: It's pricey and yes, a $30 magnetic will work. I just preferred something more rugged and just there at the flip of a switch. The mount is spring pivoting so if you hit something, the light folds back. It too takes an H1 bulb. The unit is made in Romania and is metric as is everything else JD nowadays. The light is an old school type motorized spinning unit.
Overhead Wiring: What JD doesn't tell you is they presume you're putting everything in like I did. If you use the designated slots, fine. However if you only use 2-3 accessories, the switch/fuse units must be adjacent for the wiring harness power jumpers to be long enough to bridge from switch to switch. Their location configuration is decent in that the closer the switch, the more frequently it gets used. You do need the 30A main power harness that runs from under the seat to the panel even if you decide you're only installing one accessory.
I had a chance to drive at night and the front lights are a nice addition. You can angle them as you like. I just set them for a beam pattern similar to using high beams. I'll finish up by installing the windshield washer kit later. The wiper switch is already configured with a momentary spring position for it. The tank goes behind the cab on the right frame member. It should clear the air filter assembly with is outside due to the cab heater.